Forgetfulness is Full of Memories

This is the english translation of a short poem written across a wall in the ¨Park for Peace¨ in Santiago - a site that once acted as a concentration camp during Pinochet's rule over Chile, and one stop on our very unique Human Rights Tour through the city. 

I have to admit that before our tour, I was completely unaware of who Pinochet was or Chile's recent struggles as a country. But after our 5-hour tour around Santiago, visiting La Moneda Presidential Palace, the cemetery, and the Park for Peace, I feel like I gained an understanding of why Pinochet is such an extremely controversial character in Chilean history. 

The short version, for those that aren't about to click on the link above, is that in 1970 Salvador Allende, a member of the Socialist Party, was elected as the 29th President of Chile. As he began implementing socialist programs, he was met with wide resistance (partly due to the radical changes he was trying to make AND the fact that only 36% of the people actually voted for him). As a result, Chile went into an economic crisis with inflation and unemployment increasing dramatically. Things got so out of control that on Sept 11, 1973 a military Junta (the Chilean military heads of the army, airforce, etc) attacked the Presidential Palace by bombing it using planes. During the attack Allende took control of the radio airwaves and made this speech before taking his own life (using an AK-47 rifle he received as a gift from Fidel Castro). It ends with:

¨Workers of my country, I have faith in Chile and its destiny. Other men will overcome this dark and bitter moment when treason seeks to prevail. Go forward knowing that, sooner rather than later, the great avenues will open again and free men will walk through them to construct a better society.

Long live Chile! Long live the people! Long live the workers!

These are my last words, and I am certain that my sacrifice will not be in vain, I am certain that, at the very least, it will be a moral lesson that will punish felony, cowardice, and treason.¨

And if you think that is dramatic...that was only the start of a very complicated 16-year rule by Pinochet, characterized by a  mix of miraculous economic reform and devastating human rights violations. That's what makes Pinochet such a controversial character - his ¨administration¨ did wonders for Chile's economy and international relations (the CIA apparently assisted with the bombing and takeover of Allende), but at the expense of 5,000 people that were either executed or ¨disappeared¨ because of their communistic views. The Wiki site says 3,000, but we clearly saw all the names on a huge marble wall, where people still take flowers, cards, and pictures to morn the loss of their loved ones. And while only 5,000 died or disappeared, it is estimated that 20,000 people were affected (those killed/captured/tortured, and their immediate families).

The crazy part, as with all stories like this, is that for years and years the citizens of Chile really weren't aware of what was going on. The government kept everything so hush hush that unless you knew someone that had been affected, all you saw was how wonderfully the country was running. And even if you had suspicions, you couldn't prove anything. People in surrounding countries actually knew more about what was really going on in Chile because they were hearing stories from those that were in exile. 

However, people eventually learned of the violence, and in a 1980 referendum, Pinochet was voted out of power by over 50% of the population. Since, Chile has continued to grow and be successful (which is amazing considering it's only natural resource is copper, where as Peru and Bolivia are full of gold, silver and other minerals but haven't been able to really capitalize on them). But the people have also been left to cope with the pain and suffering that occurred during Pinochet's era. There are still mothers left wondering if their children fled to another country or are in fact dead. And while Allende's 3-year term looks like a complete failure on paper, many people look to him as a hero - someone who wanted the best for Chile and all its citizens. 

OK, so I feel like I just wrote a book report, and I really hope I haven't bored you to tears with political history. I just found the whole thing so interesting that I wanted to share it with you. I mean, how is it that these things happen? The world is a crazy place...